Le Veau d’Or Makes a Thrillingly Old-Fashioned Comeback
The present-day bill of fare, too, is only lightly modernized: les escargot provençale (snails broiled under a blanket of butter, garlic, and tomato concasse), tete de veau ravigote (crispy cubes of veal headcheese), chilled lobster macédoine, a delightfully wobbly oeuf en gelée—a whole boiled egg suspended like a specimen in an amber aspic of consommé—that calls back to what the Times, in a scathing 1977 review, highlighted as one of the restaurant’s very few dishes worth recommending.