
Le Veau dâOr Makes a Thrillingly Old-Fashioned Comeback
The present-day bill of fare, too, is only lightly modernized: les escargot provençale (snails broiled under a blanket of butter, garlic, and tomato concasse), tete de veau ravigote (crispy cubes of veal headcheese), chilled lobster macĂ©doine, a delightfully wobbly oeuf en gelĂ©eâa whole boiled egg suspended like a specimen in an amber aspic of consommĂ©âthat calls back to what the Times, in a scathing 1977 review, highlighted as one of the restaurantâs very few dishes worth recommending.